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MANILA, Philippines – President Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos Jr. has vetoed the bill seeking to declare Pampanga as the “Culinary Capital of the Philippines,” saying that the country should focus on promoting the diverse culinary traditions across all regions.
Ivan Henares, Secretary General of the UNESCO National Commission of the Philippines and Commissioner of the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, shared the President’s veto message in a Facebook post.
In his veto message, the President expressed his appreciation to both houses of Congress for the “noble intention” of the bill and acknowledged Pampanga’s “rich and dynamic” culinary heritage.
“It cannot be denied that Pampanga is celebrated for its diverse and flavorful dishes, traditional cooking methods, and a strong culture of food innovation. This is consistent with the policy of the government to conserve, promote, and popularize the nation’s historical and cultural heritage and resources, as well as artistic creations,” Marcos said.
However, Marcos cited several reasons for rejecting the bill, including concerns about its “historical basis” and the lack of thorough studies and key performance indicators supporting Pampanga’s designation. He also warned that such a declaration could alienate and “offend sensibilities in other provinces” that are equally proud of their culinary contributions.
He asserted that no single region can be officially named the country’s sole culinary capital, as the nature of Philippine cuisine is rich and diverse. The country is shaped by a mix of cultural influences, with each “scattered island” bringing unique flavors and traditions.
“Our regions contribute their indigenous dishes with certain recipes that are best done in the areas of origin of their ingredients,” Marcos said, adding that the Philippines’ culinary arts — comparable to literature, visual arts, dance, or music — thrive in its regional diversity.
“Although the Filipino is derived from a common racial stock and a shared history that gave us our identity, our terrains and ethnic characteristics gave us certain differences. I believe that one must travel our islands to identify the tastes and flavors that express our culture,” Marcos added.
“This richness in terms of regional differences is the strength of our Filipino cuisine.”
Culinary experts’ two cents
Marcos quotes Kampampangan chef Jam Melchor — author and fierce Filipino food advocate — in saying that the goal must be to “[ensure] a stronger, more sustainable future for Filipino food and the communities that bring it to life.”
Melchor said the decision opens an important conversation about the state of the Filipino food system. Melchor also emphasized that Pampanga’s culinary heritage has long been acknowledged, not by decree but by the quality and authenticity of its food traditions.
“Pampanga has long been recognized as the Culinary Capital of the Philippines — not by request, but by the weight of its rich history, culinary excellence, and the generations of artisans who have kept its traditions alive. This recognition was bestowed upon the Kapampangans long before the internet amplified our food stories,” Melchor told Rappler on Wednesday, March 19.
“It’s the President’s prerogative,” Kapampangan chef, writer, and restaurateur Claude Tayag also told Rappler on Thursday.
Center for Kapampangan Studies director Robby Tantingco also expressed his thoughts on the veto and highlighted that the country already celebrates its distinct culinary heritage.
In his Facebook post, Tantingco pointed out the unanimous support of Congress, and also cited international recognition from food experts and global publications who have recognized its value such as The New York Times, Conde Nast, and the late Anthony Bourdain.
And as food historian Ige Ramos wrote last week: “National cuisine is a contentious issue, particularly given the country’s geographic and cultural diversity. It must be studied through various lenses, beginning with the hyperlocal and hyperfocused areas. That’s the only way one can understand a community’s cooking and eating habits.”
“In a country as rich and diverse as ours, even designating one region as a culinary capital is contentious and not acceptable,” Ramos said.
‘Disappointed’ response
In a statement, Pampanga Chamber of Commerce Chair Rene Romero said that they are “deeply disappointed” by the President’s decision, which he described as “disheartening,” given Pampanga’s rich culinary heritage “renowned both nationally and internationally.”
He defended Pampanga’s delicacies, such as sisig, tibok-tibok, turrones de casoy, San Nicolas cookies, tocino, pindang damulag, patcu, buro, adobong matua, asadong malangi, and suklating batirul, which he says “have captivated the palates of Filipinos and foreigners alike.”
“The late Anthony Bourdain once acclaimed sisig as “arguably the greatest pork dish on earth,” a testament to the province’s culinary prowess,” Romero said, urging the Office of the President to “elucidate the rationale behind this veto.”
While the veto was expected to disappoint many Kapampangans, Marcos reassured the public that the decision was not to discredit Pampanga’s astounding quality, but rather to recognize that the entire country contributes to the rich tapestry of Filipino food culture.
“We should not be competing with each other for bragging rights and empty titles. Focus on sustainable programs, not just trivial things. Let’s determine “key performance indicators” and work towards those,” the President said.
On Thursday, March 20, Malacañang Press Officer Undersecretary Clarissa Castro said that the bill could create further discrimination among regions.
“Each region has its own culture and excellence. If only one region is chosen as the best or most outstanding, other people — especially foreigners who want to visit the Philippines — might think that only one region is worth visiting for the best and most delicious local food,” she said in Filipino.
The veto, formalized through a letter to the Senate and the House of Representatives dated March 12, was sent through Executive Secretary Lucas Bersamin.
The Senate Bill 2797 was authored by Senator Lito Lapid, a former Pampanga governor; while House Bill 10634 was introduced by Pampanga representatives Anna York Bondoc, Carmelo Lazatin II, Senior Deputy Speaker Aurelio Gonzales Jr., and Gloria Macapagal Arroyo. – with reports from Joann Manabat/Rappler.com
