Dining and discoveries in Delhi

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From Mughal-era monuments to world-class Indian cuisine, the city offers travelers a feast for the senses

Come Oct. 1, I’m made to understand that Air India will commence direct flights from Manila to Delhi five days a week. The aircraft will be the Airbus A321, with a three-class cabin configuration. There will be visa-free entry for Indian tourists visiting the Philippines for up to 14 days; and reciprocally, Filipinos need only apply for an e-tourist visa to India that’s free of charge from Aug. 1, 2025, to July 31, 2025. It’s good for double entry to India, and it’s emailed to you within four days. You print it out and present it to immigration with your passport upon arrival in India. It’s fast and convenient, and I used it when I traveled to Delhi two months ago.

In Delhi, one of the sights I would recommend is Humayun’s Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s been wonderfully preserved and organized for viewing. Built in the 1560s during Mughal rule, with the patronage of Humayun’s son, Emperor Akbar, it is considered the first garden tomb on the Indian subcontinent. It inspired several major architectural innovations, culminating in the construction of the Taj Mahal.

As for dining in Delhi, there are several wonderful places to go, and I’d like to highlight two that I would heartily recommend to first-time visitors to the city. They’re very different in terms of presentation and cuisine, and showcase the variety of dining options.

Located within the ITC Hotel is Bukhara, a long-established must-try dining experience in Delhi. The conceit here is to approximate eating in the northwest Afghanistan border, where communal eating is a must as part of “breaking bread,” and it would be common to eat without cutlery — yes, this is a kamayan-style resto.

The Sikandari Raan is one of the specialties, a whole leg of spring lamb braised in a marinade of malt vinegar, cinnamon, black cumin and red chili paste — all finished in the tandoor, so the morsels of lamb are super tender.

Tandoori Jhinga was my personal favorite discovery. It’s jumbo prawns marinated in yogurt, red chili, turmeric and garam masala, roasted over a charcoal fire. The woman seated beside us, who seemed to be a regular, convinced us to order this, and she was right.

The Murgh Malai Kabab is boneless chicken blended with cream cheese, malt vinegar, green chili and coriander. It’s also grilled in the tandoor, and there’s a wonderful smoky aspect to these dishes.

I mention breaking bread, and be ready for the Naan Bukhara, which is brought to the table like it’s the saddle you’d use on a camel. You just break off the piece you want to eat, and it brings you visions of being in a caravanserai in the midst of the rugged Afghan hills, stopping for a meal with fellow travelers. Bukhara is one great experience.

If you’re ready to go degustation and aren’t on a budget, head to Indian Accent at The Lodhi. It sits at No. 46 of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025, and that’s just one of the numerous accolades it has received. It’s your upscale fine-dining choice that delivers and expands your concept of Indian cuisine.

In the tasting menu we partook of, first up was a trio of appetizers: aloo tikki chana dal, which is boiled potatoes with peas and spices; khakra vatana made of wheat and peas; and kothimbir vadi, a lentil dumpling with coriander and spices. It’s the spices that make the difference here, and the three are regular street fare given an upgrade.

The soft-shell crab with congee was a wonderful introduction to the creativity found at Indian Accent. The Indian spices for the breaded crab mingled wonderfully with the Chinese-inspired congee.

The lamb shikampuri boursin was a visual delight, and the lamb had a tangy aftertaste thanks to the marinade. It was followed by the meetha acaar pork ribs with mango and sour green apple, and I liked the fruits contributing to the flavor of the glazed ribs.

For presentation, I loved the strawberry kala khatta sorbet. Yes, it was an in-between-courses palate cleanser, but they elevated it to become a conversation piece.

The chicken seekh with buttered koshihikari rice was more like minced chicken accompanied by both fruit and vegetable. This was the one I found underwhelming, and I could have easily dispensed with it.

The Malaya Crepe Suzette was a crepe enfolded to look like a square, then thoughtfully festooned with shavings of nuts and a sprinkling of spices and gold foil. A perfect way to cap the night. Indulgent, yet subtle.