Why Sicogon Island is perfect for those seeking an isolated nature escape

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Sicogon Island may elude the awareness of most travelers seeking new shores for a nature escape. However, the island’s small airport and short runway hint at an established recognition that according to its history, even predates the transformation of Boracay into a popular tourist destination in the early 1990s. 

“The small Sicogon Airport now awaits for the resumption of Manila – Sicogon flights. All photos by Marky Ramone Go/Rappler

I learned about this while we were on a hiking exploration on our first morning on the island. The manager of Huni Sicogon, one of the three resorts on the island, guided us on the island’s established nature trail. He pointed to us a set of ruins to which he explained, “These are the remaining structures from a popular resort that operated here during the 1970s and the 1980s.”

During the walk, we also learned that this very island served as a glamorous retreat for affluent holidaymakers during its heyday. It was then a place where the elite of Philippine society mingled with fellow socialite travelers. Coinciding with the tumultuous era of Martial Law, I momentarily imagined prominent figures of the then ruling administration, alongside their cronies, reveling in the serene beauty of Sicogon’s powdery white sands.

Not liking what I was imagining, I quickly switched my mind to the present scene unfolding before me: a thick patch of greens leading to a mirror-like pond where the reflection of the 702-feet-high Mount Opao radiates beautifully.

Approaching the island.

Eavesdropping on the island’s Huni or sound of nature

Reaching the island the previous day wasn’t that difficult. We first traveled by air from Manila to Roxas City in Capiz, followed by a two-hour van ride to the town of Estancia. Despite being a part of the province of Iloilo, the fishing town of Estancia is nearer to Roxas City Airport, cutting the road trip by almost an hour and a half compared to coming from Iloilo City International Airport.

While waiting for the speedboat that will take us to the resort we’re staying at on the island, we went on foot to the dried seafood market located adjacent to Estancia Port. Greeted by countless stalls on both sides selling an array of dried seafood, our guide Melanie Ortega pointed out to me that the town of Estancia remains a major hub of commercial fishing in all of the Philippines. This distinction, according to her, goes way back to the early 1900s, when it drew comparison to Alaska. This was largely due to the thriving fishing trade and the vibrant activities in the region, all fueled by the rich abundance of marine life flourishing in the waters of the Visayas Sea.

At the jump-off to Sicogon, one can find a variety of dried seafood at Estancia Market.

In less than an hour aboard a speedboat, we were quickly transported from the bustling fishing port of Estancia to the serene and secluded landscape of Sicogon Island. A brief journey over land that had us passing by a small airport led us to our home for the evening, Huni Sicogon. 

Huni Sicogon is located on the foothills of the island’s Mount Opao.

The resort boasts a generous expanse, adorned with meticulously maintained lawns and gardens, a swimming pool, an outdoor bar, and an expansive shoreline. Its 52 accommodations are housed within a two-story structure, nestled amidst the island’s verdant forest and offering breathtaking vistas of Mount Opao. 

For individuals seeking a refuge from the chaos of daily life, the island presents a peaceful sanctuary, where the soft whispers of the natural world provide a calming ambiance. 

As I found out the next day, it isn’t only the property of Huni Sicogon that provides visitors with an ideal escape from their daily grind. Throughout the island, one can effortlessly discover serene locations perfect for contemplation, meditation, yoga, or simply immersing oneself in the tranquility of nature.

Sights along the nature trail.

Sicogon Island, based on my observation, is an ideal island for travelers looking for peace and quiet in nature.

The island’s primary attractions, I foresee, will cater to those who appreciate the dual offerings of wellness and wilderness experiences. I found great enjoyment in our short hike along a meticulously charted nature trail.

The start of the nature trail.

Our hour-long great outdoor walk took us along a picturesque path that culminated at a viewing platform, where we beheld ducks gliding serenely across a glassy pond, while an array of bird species darted in separate flocks against the majestic backdrop of Mount Opao. 

The island is also a great destination for birdwatchers.

Long before Boracay Island became a major draw and one of the world’s best islands, Sicogon Island stood out as one of the earliest tropical havens for vacationers seeking sun and a dash of glam. According to various accounts, the island played a role an important part in Philippines’ pop culture history, notably as the locations for actress Tetchie Agbayani’s iconic Playboy Magazine photoshoot, and the 1974 Celso Ad Castillo film Ang Pinakamagandang Hayop sa Balat ng Lupa starring Gloria Diaz.

The remnants of the old resorts on the island serve as a poignant reminder of Sicogon’s decline after its peak years spanning from the 1970s until the late 1980s. Once a destination likened to a setting of an episode of Robin Leach’s 80’s show, Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, the island has gradually surrendered to the passage of time, transforming it into a hidden gem of yesteryear.

The ruins of the swimming pool of a 1970s resort.

With development comes disruption, and a potential solution

That is until the last several years, when a slew of positive developments began to unbox Sicogon and reintroduced the island once again. Ayala Land Inc. quickly transformed the landscape by redeveloping the island through the construction of three properties: Huni Sicogon, Balay Kogon, and Hatch.

As with most instances of land development, Ayala’s entry to the island caused a disruption to many of the residents. For months and years, the locals were already locked in dispute with Sicogon Development Corp. (Sideco) as they opposed the conversion of farmlands into commercial development zones. With more development money pouring in, the uprooting of communities in the coastal areas of the island became an even bigger possibility. 

Fortunately, an agreement came about, and the community in the coastal areas moved inland. The pact includes Ayala Land and Sideco pledging to conduct livelihood and training programs, putting first priority of hiring locals in all development projects and staffing of resorts, development of more than 30 hectares of agricultural land for farmers, and construction of almost 800 homes for displaced families.

As tourism surges on the island once more, the potential benefits to the locals through increased employment and other revenues could create a mutually beneficial situation for both the locals and the incoming big businesses. One only hopes that Ayala Land delivers its promises in justly compensating island residents whose lives were disrupted by the new development.