Why Batanes remains a must-visit destination for culture, nature enthusiasts

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They say the third time’s the charm. But in Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines, each of my three visits has carried its own distinct magic.

My first trip, over a decade ago, involved pedaling halfway across Batan Island on a rented bicycle. It happened to coincide with a town fiesta, and my friends and I were warmly welcomed into local homes, where we feasted on traditional Ivatan dishes and experienced generous hospitality.

I returned in 2019, and Batanes, despite my earlier familiarity of it, still appeared, remote, windswept, and mysterious. 

Retracing my steps from Batan to Sabtang, this time with a few fellow travel writers, I was once again mesmerized by the province’s dramatic landscapes. The only downside of this return trip was that rough seas prevented us from crossing to Itbayat Island, the more secluded of the three main islands of Batanes.

On this latest trip to the province as part of the Department of Tourism’s (DOT) Philippine Experience caravan, a program that highlights each region of the country to create model tourism circuits focused on culture, heritage, cuisine, nature, and wellness, I was once again reminded of Batanes’ magnetism.

Mix of fascinating culture, wonderful nature

Nowhere is a local culture more tangible than in the quiet village of Chavayan on Sabtang Island. Here, narrow streets weave between traditional stone houses built to withstand typhoons, and where the art of making vakul and kanayi remains very much alive, thanks to the members of the Sabtang Weavers Association. 

The vakul, a headpiece crafted from dried voyavoy leaves (Philippine date palm), shields Ivatan women from the harsh elements, while the kanayi, a thick, handwoven vest worn by men when farming, speaks of both function and identity. 

Together, these traditional garments embody the Ivatan people’s relationship with their rugged environment. 

TRADITION. An elderly local woman wearing a vakul. All photos by Marky Ramone Go

Witnessing these cultures and traditions still intact made our trip to Chavayan the highlight of our second day in Batanes.

On our return to Sabtang Port, we passed through Savidug village, home to several traditional houses constructed from limestone and coral. 

Alongside Chavayan, Savidug has become one of Batanes’ most significant cultural attractions. These stone houses holds a special place in my memory vault, recalling my homestay experience in Chavayan back in 2014.

Other places we stopped by at Sabtang Island also includes Morong Beach where Nakabuang Arch, an arch-shaped rock formation sculpted by centuries of wind and tide, forms a surreal gateway to a long stretch of shoreline. 

The participants of the Philippine Experience Batanes leg also took time to visit the Saint Vincent Ferrer Parish Church, whose current structure dates back to 1844. It is one of the Jubilee Churches in the country and a declared National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.

Following our morning arrival on the island of Batan, home to the provincial capital of Basco and its namesake airport, we got a glimpse of the province’s spiritual heritage as we began our tour with a mini-Visita Iglesia. 

First stop: the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, more commonly known as Basco Cathedral, situated across from the town plaza. 

From there, we visited San Jose de Obrero Church, facing the port of Ivana, and the baroque-style San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao, honored as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines.

After exploring Batanes’ spiritual heritage, we sought deeper insights into the history and culture of the Ivatan people by visiting several cultural and historical landmarks. Among them was the Castaño Ruins, a 1933 former home of Valentine and Catalina Castaño, built from lime, sand, and boulders. 

We also visited the House of Dakay, constructed in 1877 for the family of Jose Estrella. Showcasing traditional Ivatan architecture with thick stone walls and a thatched cogon roof, it is the only house that survived the powerful earthquake of September 13, 1918.

PICTURESQUE. The long stretch of Morong beach and the Nakabuang Arch.

In a province where crime is virtually nonexistent and police intervention typically involves minor neighborly disputes; honesty is woven into the fabric of daily life. 

It’s no surprise that the concept of the “Honesty Store” first emerged in Batanes. Established in 1995 by Ivatan couple Jose and Elena Gabilo, the Honesty Coffee Shop is a powerful symbol of trust. 

Operating without a cashier, it relies on customers to self-checkout, reflecting the Ivatan people’s unwavering commitment to honesty and community integrity.

“Blow your horn” has become an iconic phrase in Batanes. Unlike the honking chaos of city traffic, here it’s a courteous gesture, a gentle signal of respect to oncoming vehicles and the occasional free-roaming cow or goat sharing the scenic roads. 

One of the most photographed “Blow Your Horn” signs can be found at the picturesque part of the National Road near the rolling hills and rock formations of Alapad. It’s not just a traffic reminder, it’s yet another reminder of Batanes’ refined etiquette that expands even on the road.

While many are drawn to Batanes for its cinematic landscapes, the newly reopened National Museum of the Philippines (NMP) – Batanes, one of NMP’s 17 component museums in the Philippines, offers a deeper look into the province’s cultural roots. 

Located near Alapad Hill and overlooking Imnajbu-Itbud Beach, the museum occupies a former US Coast Guard LORAN station, first converted into a museum in 2012 and renovated in 2023 with a modern design. Its permanent exhibit, Ínamuhun: 

The Natural and Cultural Heritage of Batanes, features archaeological finds, ethnographic artifacts, and displays of local flora and fauna — offering visitors a rare window into the island’s ecological and cultural identity.

Basco’s Valugan Boulder Beach isn’t your typical barefoot shoreline. Here, white sand is replaced by smooth volcanic boulders, polished by time and waves. Unlike the easygoing vibe of a powdery beach, Valugan offers a moodier atmosphere perfect for clearing your head or filming a cinematic slow-motion walk as you hop from one massive stone to the next. 

TOWERING. A sample set-up of an intimate event held at the Basco Lighthouse,

Batan Island’s twin lighthouses; Basco Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse, aren’t just for guiding ships; they’re also becoming popular in the destination wedding industry. 

What’s there not to like? With cinematic views of rolling hills, the endless ocean, and winds that blows your hair like you’re in a romcom film, the romance is set in. 

We’re talking al fresco meals that make your usual outdoor dining feel basic, just like what we experienced during our sunset dinner at Basco followed by a sun-drenched lunch the next day at Tayid.

We capped our Philippine Experience tour with a visit to two hilltop locations on opposite sides of Batan Island. On the eastern-central side, we found ourselves frolicking like cows on the grassy knolls of Racuh a Payaman, more popularly known as Marlboro Country, a nickname inspired by the 1980s TV commercials of Marlboro featuring cowboys herding cattle across wide open fields.

The name Racuh a Payaman comes from the Ivatan language: racuh meaning “vast land” and payaman translating to “pastureland.” 

Located in Mahatao, Batan Island, this sweeping landscape of rolling hills serves as communal grazing grounds for local farmers’ cows and carabaos. Towering in the background is Mt. Iraya, its name loosely translating to “upward slope” in Ivatan, an active stratovolcano standing at 3,310 feet, the highest peak in Batanes. 

Its majestic presence adds even more charm to the view and stirs my own wish to return, as I’ve dreamed of climbing it since the first time I laid eyes on it.

QUAINT. A bicycle is parked beside a traditional stone house at the Chavayan Village.

On the western-central side of Batan Island, we spent our final afternoon waiting for the sunset atop a grassy mound in the vast expanse of Vayang Rolling Hills. 

Despite our Philippine Experience Batanes contingent numbering a few dozens, the openness of the landscape offered enough space for solitude. I easily found freedom to run and climb a couple of hilltops, reclaiming a sense of quiet amidst the crowd.

I settled on one of the ridges and watched as the light softened over the hills. In that moment, as golden hues covered the landscape, I recall memories of my previous two visits to Batanes, grateful for the good fortune of returning a third time. 

That sunset watching experience turned out to be a gentle pause, one of reflection set against the incomparable beauty of a place that now appear to me as both distant and familiar.

After four days of traveling along narrow coastal roads and crossing the sea to another island, one thing stood out clearly: Batanes resists overexposure. Its lasting appeal lies not just in its scenery, but in its spirit. 

For travelers like me, it remains a place worth returning to-not just once or twice, but whenever the opportunity arises.

Pro tip: Don’t just come for the ‘gram

While anyone who sets foot on the waving landscape of Batanes would be forgiven for snapping countless photos against its postcard-perfect backdrops, travelers are encouraged to look beyond the Instagram appeal.

Though many still prefer to explore on their own, the Department of Tourism recommends hiring one of the province’s DOT-accredited tour guides not just for logistics, but to engage in conversation and gain deeper insight into Ivatan culture as they journey through the islands.

Batanes takes spotlight in program

The Philippine Experience Program, a flagship initiative by the DOT, promotes heritage-rich travel across the country. Designed to broaden domestic tourism circuits, the program highlights immersive cultural itineraries focusing on Filipino traditions, local gastronomy, religious and wellness sites, and the arts.

After wrapping up regional legs in Central Luzon, Calabarzon, Western Visayas, Soccsksargen, Caraga, the Cordilleras, Davao, Palawan, Northern Mindanao, Bicol, and the Zamboanga Peninsula, the cultural caravan recently made its way to the country’s northernmost province of Batanes.

Renowned for its dramatic cliffs, rolling hills, and time-honored Ivatan culture, Batanes provided a striking backdrop for the latest leg of the program. Alongside tourism stakeholders, the delegation included media representatives, social media influencers, and diplomats from Australia, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia. 

The group traveled along the winding roads of Batan Island and sailed across to Sabtang, one of the archipelago’s most culturally intact destinations.

The stop in Batanes forms part of the DOT’s broader mission to revitalize tourism in areas long impacted by natural disasters. Batanes’ tourism sector, still recovering from devastating typhoons in 2004, is being reintroduced to both local and foreign audiences through this curated cultural showcase.

Low-volume, high-value tourism

​Batanes is embracing a shift toward balanced tourism, with local stakeholders advocating for a manageable number of visitors to preserve the archipelago’s cultural and natural integrity. 

Tour guide Remedios Santos, active since 2008, emphasizes maintaining the ideal number of tourists to protect the island’s quality. 

“We want our culture to remain well-maintained and orderly,” she said. 

Ed Delfin of the Batanes Tour Guides Association echoes this sentiment, warning against uncontrolled growth that could harm the islands’ ecosystem, as seen in destinations like Boracay and Siargao.

The high cost of travel to Batanes, about P12,000 for a one-way flight, naturally helps regulate tourist numbers, aligning with the community’s sustainable tourism efforts. 

While foreign interest in promoting Batanes remains, the province’s commitment ensures that any influx stays within its ideal capacity. 

In 2024, the island welcomed just over 13,000 tourists, down from 50,000 in 2018, signaling a shift from quantity to quality. 

This focus on sustainability earned Batanes international recognition as the first Philippine member of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO)’s International Network of Sustainable Tourism Observatories. – Rappler.com