What’s next for Gucci?

February 23, 2025 | 12:00am

‘‘A precise moment in time. A moment to seize and live to the fullest. It’s the moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day. It’s the moment we find ourselves. This collection is a tribute to those moments, and an invitation to stop, seek your own moment,’ says Sabato de Sarno.

Was the logo-less photo wall a premonition of things that have happened? Sabato de Sarno presented two collections, made a mark by owning its own color splashed all over while embracing their own brand of stealth and then said ciao! before this next season said hello.

I had the pleasure of attending Sabato’s unexpected final show at the Triennale Milano last September, with Anne Curtis representing the Philippines walking through a corridor of colors which flirted from white to its very own Gucci Rosso Ancora. With hues of a summer’s sunset, the space is divided into rooms, each a different tone, able to create a unique experience, an unrepeatable moment.

“A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction. Moment after moment, I have built my ideas for Gucci. A casual grandeur that takes shape through my obsessions — tailoring, lingerie, leather, ‘60s silhouettes, all combined with the tireless exploration of the heritage of this brand — and always with an irreverent attitude,” says Sabato de Sarno.

The show opened with tailored pieces in their most essential but never ordinary versions, the silhouette a homage to the ‘60s. Then came the floor-length coats with a couture attitude — casual grandeur at its finest. The grand coats, of the finest construction, bring new vigor to the GG Monogram. Designed for the everyday, therefore worn effortlessly with denim and a tank top.

Finale of casual grandeur

The finale was a tribute to a classic Italian song, Non Voglio Mica La Luna, reworked by legendary music man Mark Ronson, a frequent Sabato collaborator. The original singer Fiordaliso was in the audience and Sabato gave her a hug as he came out in the finale. This creative director knew how to pay tribute to heritage.

Sarno’s collection was all about casual grandeur. Because that “casual grandeur” has been part of Gucci since the very beginning. The Gucci Bamboo 1947 is the star, with the bag in its original design and new contemporary details created by skillful artisans working with diverse materials such as leather, lacquer, and Plexiglass.

New handbags with bamboo details alternate on the runway with mini silhouettes and the Gucci 73 bucket bag with the Horsebit on the side, but we also see the new Gucci Go bag, structured, compact, to wear everywhere. The Horsebit remains a central element for shoes, evolving from the iconic Horsebit 1953 loafers into other stuff that’s good for the sole. Now featured on a flat boot, soft and enveloping with a ‘60s attitude, the same attitude as the wrap-around sunglasses with gradient lenses in the colors of the collection.

And finally, the Gucci Flora foulard, tied as headscarf, in its original version as designed by illustrator Vittorio Accornero de Testa: nine bouquets on a white background and a contrasting frame. Reimagined as a canvas, through the tone-on-tone chromatic choices that follow the color palette of the collection. So you can put this on your head to match your Gucci shoulders.

So what’s next for Gucci?  The guessing game is on. But for now, here are the pieces to salivate and lust over, available at Gucci stores nationwide.