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MANILA, Philippines – Filipinos have long been tied to their food. From celebration to mourning, our food landscape is intricately connected to the nation’s beliefs, culture, and identity. But over the years, many of these indigenous traditions have faded, and some have ultimately been forgotten.
To help address this pressing issue, Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement (PCHM) president and one of the core founders of Filipino Food Month (FFM), chef Jose Antonio Miguel “Jam” Melchor, reminds us that food is more than just sustenance.
During FFM 2025’s month-long festivities, he highlighted how traditional cuisine is a testament to Filipino heritage and history that reflects the nation’s identity.
“Our cuisine is not just singular, nor should it ever be confined to one definition,” he said. “Filipino food is an intricate tapestry woven from centuries of trade, migration, and cross-cultural influences, and yet, at its core, it remains uniquely Filipino because it carries the warmth, ingenuity, and soul of our people.”
In an interview with Rappler, he further emphasized how this is especially crucial when it comes to indigenous cuisines, which reflect our history, identity, and deep connection to the land.
Melchor explained that “these food traditions, passed down through generations, carry the stories, values, and sustainable practices of our ancestors. They showcase the diversity of our culture beyond mainstream dishes, reminding us of the richness of our roots.”
Losing our indigenous ingredients
Yet, despite their vital importance to Filipinohood, these cuisines remain at risk. Many time-honored cooking methods are slowly being abandoned in favor of convenience and due to a growing lack of knowledge about our heirloom ingredients, Melchor said.
This is especially evident in dishes considered seasonal delicacies, Melchor shared, such as duman — made from young glutinous rice that is painstakingly harvested and pounded by hand in the town of Sta. Rita, Pampanga.
Other than its labor-intensive process, which has discouraged younger generations from continuing the tradition, its production is also limited to a brief window each year. Melchor said that this restriction is further aggravated by urban developments and land conversion, which have significantly reduced the areas where duman can be cultivated.
The modern shift towards more commercially available products also majorly impacts the decline of these indigenous ingredients. Many native fruits and vegetables are slowly falling into obscurity due to limited demand outside their place of origin, Melchor warned.
One of these products is Northern Mindanao’s tabon-tabon, which is a key ingredient in traditional kinilaw (Filipino ceviche), where its grated pulp takes out the “fishy” smell and taste of raw fish. With many available citrus-based alternatives in the market, the traditional knowledge on this ingredient loses out as it is sidelined and overlooked.
On top of these factors, as globalization overtakes many of the cultures in the country, local food traditions are overshadowed and replaced by foreign ones.
“The loss of many indigenous ingredients in the Philippines is driven by factors such as modernization and changing lifestyles, which favor convenience over tradition,” Melchor said. He also pointed out the decline of oral knowledge transfer, as younger generations move away from traditional practices.
Other factors include environmental degradation that destroys natural habitats; the dominance of commercial agriculture that sidelines native crops; lack of documentation and research on indigenous plants; and the influence of globalization, which often overshadows local food traditions.
“These challenges highlight the urgent need for cultural preservation, sustainable practices, and renewed appreciation of our native food heritage,” Melchor added.
Collective effort
With all these factors contributing to the ongoing risks, Melchor emphasizes why, most importantly, FFM is a call to action to protect, preserve, and promote the flavors that make us who we are.
“If we do not act now, we risk losing not just our dishes but the very narrative that defines us,” Melchor said.
He said it is through empowering local farmers and supporting food artisans that we develop our own understanding of our Filipino cuisines.
Engaging in community activities, documenting cultural practices, and advocating for heritage-friendly practices are also crucial in securing our traditions.
Beyond that, individuals must exert the effort of sharing traditional cuisines to promote intergenerational learning.
And with the rise of social media, creating discourse is as important as putting the ingredients and practices into use. Using the platform to help the sector fight back against the looming threat of our indigenous culture being abandoned.
For Melchor, all of these are important practices not only for a month, but for the years to come.
“Let us remember that the responsibility of safeguarding our culinary heritage is not just in the hands of the chefs, historians, or food advocates,” he said. “It belongs to all of us.” – Rappler.com
Kevin Ian Lampayan is a Rappler intern studying Bachelor of Arts in Literary and Cultural Studies at the Polytechnic University of the Philippines.
