Of faith, family, and flavors: Lent and legacy at La Virginia

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THE INVITING facade of La Virginia 

For many Filipino families, Lent is a time of reflection, quiet traditions, and meaningful meals. But for acclaimed culinary artist Chef Heny Sison and restaurateur Queenie Paras, it is also a season that continues to shape their relationship with food—and by extension, the way they feed the city.

Over lunch at their newest Italian restaurant La Virginia, tucked in a quiet corner of Sct. Rallos Street, the two shared not just their latest dishes but stories of faith, family, and the flavors that have carried them through decades of Holy Week traditions.

THE INTERIORS are chic yet cozy, capturing the modern Italian soul of the restaurant

“Lent was always a reflective time for our family,” said Chef Heny. “There was no music, just prayer. We observed fasting on Fridays. Maundy Thursday was for Visita Iglesia, visiting seven churches and praying the Stations of the Cross. It was quiet, but filled with meaning.”

For Heny, food during Holy Week was simple, yet unforgettable. “My mother always made bacalao on Good Friday—salted cod stewed with tomatoes, olives, potatoes, and capers. It’s a dish I still prepare to this day. We also had adobong alimango, ginisang gulay, and monggo with fried fish, for those days when abstinence wasn’t required.”
Queenie’s Lenten memories bring her back to the coastal town of Cabugao in Ilocos Sur.

CHEF HENY Sison 

“We lived near the beach, but during Holy Week, we weren’t allowed to swim or play,” she recalled with a smile. “It was a time for stillness. Later on, when we had our own children, we let them have a little more fun, but we kept the spirit of the tradition alive.”

Like Heny, Queenie’s family also took the Visita Iglesia seriously—trekking to nine churches over three to four hours. “And of course, the food was simple but special—grilled seafood, bacalao, paksiw. It was our way of honoring the season.”

QUEENIE Paras

From faith to flavor: Enter La Virginia

That reverence for memory and meaning carries into their latest project: La Virginia, a heartfelt Italian concept that opened late last year at 106 Sct. Rallos Street. The restaurant is the follow-up to their first culinary collaboration, Victorino’s, which quickly became a beloved dining destination in Quezon City for its authentic Ilocano cuisine—celebrating heirloom recipes, regional ingredients, and the rich culinary heritage of northern Luzon.
Named after Queenie’s grandmother, La Virginia takes that same devotion to cultural authenticity and applies it to her Italian lineage.

“My grandfather was Jorge Barberiano from Salerno, Italy. When he moved to the U.S., his name was changed to George Barbers,” Queenie shared. “This restaurant is a tribute to that heritage—especially to my grandmother, Virginia.”

POLPO ALLA LUCIANA Perfect for lent, octopus paired with couscous, capers, and cherry tomatoes 

The result? A dining space that feels both homey and elevated. The atmosphere is minimalist, but the menu is generous in spirit. At La Virginia, food is not just sustenance—it’s storytelling.
Start with the caprese di burrata, a refreshing opener that combines ripe tomato, pesto, and creamy burrata. For warmth, there’s funghi porcini soup with porcini and bacon, or the subtly sweet zucca con amaretti—squash soup kissed with cinnamon and crushed amaretti cookies.

The pizza selection, too, bridges old-world tradition and modern creativity—from the anchovy-zucchini-ricotta acciughe e zucchine, to the faithful margherita and meaty Ccarnivoro.

Then come the pastas—some freshly made, others dried and robust. The main courses are thoughtful reimaginings of Italian comfort: Porchetta (readers can try these after Lent) roasted to a crisp-herb perfection, Bistecca di Manzo with a rich red wine glaze, and a standout, the Lenten appropriate polpo alla luciana—octopus paired with couscous, capers, and cherry tomatoes.

As Lent invites a return to tradition and simplicity, La Virginia honors both with a menu that welcomes diners to slow down, reflect, and savor.

ACCIUGHE E ZUCCHINE Pizza topped with anchovy, zucchini, and ricotta 

A season of creativity and community

This month, the restaurant is adding another dimension to its offerings: “Spring in Italy,” an art-and-dine event featuring Altaire Bautista’s Textured Blooms. Guests can paint their own Italian-inspired canvases while enjoying a curated menu—proof that La Virginia isn’t just a restaurant, but a gathering place for creativity and connection.

From their spiritual practices to their plates, Chef Heny and Queenie remind us that the best meals aren’t just delicious—they’re meaningful. Especially in Lent, when food becomes a vehicle for faith, memory, and shared history.
In a city constantly craving the new, La Virginia offers something deeper: a reason to return.