Not just pinikpikan: There’s more to Cordillera food than chicken and etag

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BAGUIO CITY, PHILIPPINES – So here’s a confession: before I knew better, I used to think Cordillera cuisine began and ended with pinikpikan — the region’s traditional chicken dish often talked about with curiosity, and, let’s admit, a bit of misunderstanding from those unfamiliar with indigenous cooking methods.

But thankfully, there’s a whole world of Cordilleran food beyond the usual stories, and it’s rich, diverse, and absolutely worth tasting.

And if you’re as curious (or hungry) as I am, then mark your calendar for April 24 to 28, because the Mangan Taku Food Fair is back for its sixth year at the Rose Garden in Burnham Park, Baguio City. “Mangan Taku” literally means “let’s eat” in Kankanaey (an indigenous language), and honestly, that’s an invitation you’d regret ignoring.

Patupat from Bontoc and linnapet from Besao, rice cakes from Mountain Province. Photo by Mia Magdalena Fokno

A feast that doesn’t require a mountain trek

The beauty of Mangan Taku is that you don’t need to climb a mountain or ride a horse into the boondocks to sample authentic Cordilleran cuisine. It brings together the best dishes from different provinces in one city park. You’ll find everything from etag (the Igorot version of bacon, but smokier and more poetic) to binungor (a spicy snail and veggie stew from Kalinga) to pinuneg (a blood sausage that sounds intimidating but tastes amazing if you give it a chance).

Yes, there’s still pinikpikan, but don’t let it steal the show. There’s more to us than that.

What’s cooking?

DOT-CAR Regional Director Jovita Ganongan says this year’s fair is extra special. Not only will you be able to graze your way through a Cordilleran food safari at Burnham, but participating hotels and restaurants around Baguio will also display “Mangan Taku” stickers if they serve Cordilleran dishes on their menu. That means you’ll know exactly where to go when the craving hits, because really, Google reviews don’t always know what binungor is.

Binudbudan kamoteng kahoy — soft, sweet, and sticky. Photo by Mia Magdalena Fokno

Why it matters (besides your stomach)

This isn’t just about food, although the food is worth the trip alone. Mangan Taku is part of the country’s Filipino Food Month celebration every April, as declared by Proclamation No. 469 in 2018. It’s about preserving traditions, supporting farmers and small food businesses, and reminding everyone that cultural identity can be served on a plate with rice, of course.

City Ordinance No. 81 made Mangan Taku an official thing in 2019, and since then, it’s been a gathering point for foodies, tourists, and homesick Cordillerans. The Regional Development Council backs it. The LGUs are behind it. Your appetite will thank you for it.

In other words: come hungry

If you’re tired of fast food and fusion and just want to taste something honest, rooted, and deliciously unfamiliar, this is your chance. Bring a friend, bring a fork (okay fine, you can use your hands), and bring an open mind. Because up here in the highlands, food isn’t just a meal. It’s a love language, a history lesson, and a warm welcome rolled into one.

So… mangan taku? – Rappler.com