‘I just cook from my heart’: Korean chef shares thoughts on his 2-Michelin stars 

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MANILA, Philippines — With the news of the Michelin Guide finally debuting in the Philippines this year, many Filipino foodies, and perhaps chefs, are wondering what it takes to get the coveted Michelin seal of approval. 

Korean chef Sun Kim, who was recently in town for a limited engagement at Solaire’s Waterside, candidly said he does not exactly know how one can get the star rating. 

Chef Sun, a native of Busan, South Korea, has made Singapore his home, especially after putting up his own restaurant Meta in 2017. 

He was asked during an interview with the press right after his six-course lunch preview on what it takes to earn the approval of the popular restaurant review system.

“I don't know,” he immediately replied to a follow-up question if restaurants or chefs were informed or asked by Michelin’s review body before they get the rating. 

“No, they don’t tell you why. I think if you deserve 3-star, 2-star, 1-star, I think they give you,” the chef said. 

He was admittedly not prepared to earn his first star for Meta in 2018, a year after establishing his own restaurant in the city-state. 

“It was my first Michelin star. I don’t think I was ready for the Michelin star. I just opened a restaurant. Michelin is a very big achievement,” Chef Sun said. 

Meta features “95% seafood” on its menu. Chef Sun hails from the southern port city of Busan, and it was his mother’s cooking and waking up to a view of a seafood market that has imprinted in his memory to this day. 

“I try my best to evolve and I like to hear the people say, ‘Well-deserved.’ So, I try my best to improve my cuisine and, of course, train my team as well,” the 40-year-old chef said.

After almost seven years since opening his first Meta, he opened another branch in Singapore, and also earned his second Michelin star, last year. 

“But, of course, it depends on the service quality, depends on what you serve to the customer. I think it has to be very good quality,” he later on said about earning a Michelin star. 

He also added that over the years, his cooking techniques evolved and became better. He also has better access to produce and ingredients, aspects that further help elevate his dishes. 

Chef Sun’s journey is especially inspiring. In his profile on the Michelin Guide website, it details how he has risen up to the ranks. He taught himself to cook, and worked in construction as painter and builder. He put himself through vocational cooking school in Seoul. He eventually worked in French and Italian restaurants.

Among the highlights of his culinary career would be working for acclaimed Japanese chef Tetsuya Wakuda for the latter’s Waku Ghin in Australia. Under the Japanese master’s tutelage, Chef Sun’s skills further improved. 

He does not see his Michelin stars as stressful, quipping that he is able to go to places, such as Manila, because of it. 

“I get to come here to cook for you guys as well. I wouldn't be here if I don't have a Michelin star, you know,” he candidly said. 

Aptly named Chef Sun, the Korean chef is far removed from the acclaims he has received so far. 

“No, I just cook from my heart,” he replied when asked if he ever thinks of getting awards whenever he is cooking. 

“I want every diner to have the best experience when I'm in a kitchen. I try to cook everything myself."