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MANILA, Philippines — Now that Filipino cuisine is slowly but surely getting the recognition it deserves on the global culinary stage, even sparking food trends like the ube craze that has been taking place in recent months, Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo realized that it is time to mount a serious discussion on not just the present state but, more importantly, the future of Filipino food.
The institution staged "From Plates to Pages: A Gastronomic Dialogue and Tasting Feast" at Areté in Ateneo de Manila University last May 21.
The event brought together chefs, scholars, food advocates, media practitioners, and culinary enthusiasts for an afternoon of meaningful conversations and curated gastronomic experiences centered on Filipino food, culture, and sustainability.
Inspired by two books that have recently been released — "Pinas Simpol" by Chef Myke "Tatung" Sarthou and "Bukambibig" by food scholar Ige Ramos — the gastronomic dialogue examined the evolving identity of Filipino cuisine and the urgent need to preserve, document, and strengthen the systems surrounding it.
Discussions centered on food sustainability, accessibility, agricultural systems, regionalism, culinary heritage preservation, and the growing role of Geographical Indications (GI) in protecting local products and food traditions.
Sharing the stage with the two book authors as speakers and panelists were Chef Cyrille Soenen, technical director and executive chef of Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo; anthropologist and Professor Emeritus Dr. Fernando Zialcita; and resource persons Estella Duque and Rob Villacabral.
Meaningful conversation
More than a celebration of food, the conference highlighted the need to bridge cultural appreciation with systems that genuinely support Filipino farmers, producers, MSMEs, and regional food communities.
Also a major point of discussion was the importance of codification and documentation in preserving culinary heritage. The collaboration with Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo made it possible to create a meaningful dialogue on both Filipino and French culinary traditions, particularly in how cuisines are preserved, taught, and presented internationally.
Le Cordon Bleu, the mother institution of Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo, is one of the world’s leading culinary institutions rooted in French gastronomy. Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo played an important role in framing the conference discussions through the lens of culinary education, codification, preservation, and gastronomy as cultural heritage.
During the panel discussions, Chef Soenen raised key reflections surrounding French gastronomy and its relevance to the future of Filipino cuisine. Among the central questions explored were how French recipes and kitchen systems were standardized and codified, the role codification played in establishing French cuisine on the global stage, and what French cuisine can continue to learn from Filipino cuisine today.
The discussions highlighted how French culinary traditions became globally influential not only through technique, but through structure, consistency, culinary literature, and formal systems of education that allowed knowledge to be transmitted across generations. At the same time, the panel recognized the unique strengths of Filipino cuisine, complete with its regional diversity, adaptability, communal dining culture, and deeply rooted storytelling traditions.
Rather than positioning French and Filipino cuisines against one another, however, the conference emphasized the value of dialogue between both culinary cultures. French gastronomy offered perspectives on preservation, codification, and institutional learning, while Filipino cuisine contributed lessons in cultural memory, hospitality, regional identity, and emotional connection to food.
Among the major themes that emerged during the dialogue were the challenges of making quality Filipino ingredients more accessible, the realities faced by local producers, and the importance of documenting and preserving food traditions beyond nostalgia.
Speakers also discussed the role of regionalism in Filipino cuisine, emphasizing that the country’s culinary identity is shaped by diverse regional stories, ingredients, and traditions rather than a singular culinary narrative.
Desserts spread by Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo.
Beyond the conference proper and as the title of the event suggested, "From Plates to Pages" was a tasting feast that treated guests to guests to an extensive array of food treats curated by Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo alongside featured chefs and partners.
The Le Cordon Bleu Savory Station featured Brioche Bun with Crab seasoned with Five Spices, Sherry and Honey Vinaigrette, and Potagère Coulis; Crispy Raviolis with Blood Sausage, White Bean Hummus, Piquillos Coulis, Pickled Red Onion, and Croque Monsieur; and Egg Parfait with Sauce Meurette (mushroom, bacon, shallot, parmesan, and red wine sauce)
The Chef Tatung Station showcased elevated Filipino classics, such as Tortang Talong (Gratin Style), Bistek Tagalog, and Embotido.
The Ige Ramos station presented Caviteño Almondigas, Lumpiang Sariwa, and Chicken Pastil.
Guests also enjoyed selections from the Le Cordon Bleu Bread Station, including Baguette Sourdough, Épis with Bacon and Pommery Mustard, Provençal Focaccia Bread, as well as Figues and Walnut Bread.
The Le Cordon Bleu Dessert Stations served Lollipop Assorted Red Fruit and Lime, Chocolate Cup Cerveza Negra and Poached Pear Purée, Club Sandwich Passion and Hazelnut Paste, Coconut Macaron, Brownie Caramel, and Dome Litchi Raspberry.
Point to ponder on: If there is one thing that "From Plates to Pages" has proven, it is that Filipino cuisine continues to evolve into a more confident, documented, and globally relevant culinary identity while remaining deeply rooted in the communities, traditions, and people who shape it.
