From Tokyo to Toyo: This Filipino kakigori concept began with a free ice machine

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MANILA, Philippines – It all started with an ice machine, hand-carried by chef Jordy Navarra on a flight from Tokyo to Manila.

Navarra, the founder of the multi-awarded fine dining restaurant Toyo Eatery, was in Japan for a collaboration dinner back in 2019 when he met chef Hiroyasu Kawate of Tokyo’s Florilège.

Somewhere between courses and conversation, the topic turned to halo-halo and its traditional preparation — shaving ice by hand using a manual machine. At the time, Florilège was experimenting with kakigori, Japan’s traditional shaved ice dessert, through pop-ups.

In that moment, both chefs realized: our countries’ beloved icy desserts weren’t so different after all.

A few months after that serendipitous meeting, Kawate offered a free professional kakigori machine to the Toyo team as a thoughtful gesture, which led to deeper conversations between the two restaurants.

By January 2022, Florilège’s kakigori pop-up was a success — it had evolved into a concept called Azuki to Kouri. And from there, both chefs thought: what if Toyo’s innovative approach to Filipino cuisine met the traditions and craft of Japan’s Azuki to Kouri?

Ice, ice, baby

At the corner of The Alley at Karrivin Plaza in Makati, right beside Toyo Eatery, is AzukiToyo, which is open from 1:30 to 8:30 pm, Tuesdays to Saturdays.

It’s a small space that’s just enough for only a handful of guests at a time, with front bar seating and seats by the window. The design evokes Japanese minimalism with wooden accents, warmed by Filipino hospitality.

For example, cozy shawls are placed in wicker baskets, handed out to guests who might get chilly after the first spoonfuls of ice.

At the front of the open kitchen is the ice machine that started it all, in all its high tech glory. And right beside it is a huge block of ice so crystal clear and pristine, you’d think it was glass.

According to the AzukiToyo team, this special ice used specifically for kakigori is cured for 48 hours, constantly shaken in a machine to let all sediments settle. It’s filtered to prevent freezer burn and cloudiness and maintain purity. What comes out of the kakigori shaver is unlike regular crushed ice — this one is feathery, cottony, and delicately melts in the mouth within seconds.

Because it’s so fine, the sauces of the icy dessert seamlessly penetrate all layers, making each spoonful consistent from top to bottom.

To master the process, AzukiToyo’s chefs Sam Constantino and Chaela Dee trained for a week in Tokyo under the guidance of the Florilège team. Most flavors were a collaboration between the two kitchens. Two classics from Tokyo made it to the Manila menu: Azuki at Matcha and Azuki at Merengue.

The Azuki at Matcha has red bean, meringue, shiratama, and Inokura matcha, while the Azuki at Merengue is a great entry point to a first-timer’s kakigori journey, made with red bean, meringue, and chewy shiratama — nothing too overloaded.

It’s creamy, milky, sophisticated, but simple, like a restrained and refined Japanese take on sweet leche flan. The textures play well together: the crunch of meringue, the chew of shiratama (which is made from glutinous rice flour), and the smoothness of cream.

The azuki beans used by AzukiToyo are from a supplier in Myanmar, cooked for two days in water and sugar to keep them slightly al dente and not mushy. The shiratama, Japan-sourced, is a mochi made of glutinous rice flour with a chew similar to bilo-bilo or palitaw, but thinner and more gelatin-like in texture — almost like a gloopy syrup.

When the team develops new flavors, it’s always a back-and-forth with Florilège. “Every time they fly in, we figure out the menu together. It’s been crazy support,” the Toyo team told Rappler.

While the kakigori process and technique are rooted in Japan, the soul of the flavors is proudly local — Filipino ingredients like ube, pandan, and corn are sourced from Quezon and treated with care the Toyo way.

You had me at halo-halo

One of AzukiToyo’s most creative offerings is its take on the classic halo-halo. “It has all the usual components we grew up with — ube, langka, saba,” the team said. “But like all our kakigoris, it’s meant to be eaten from top to bottom. No mixing.”

There are 13 thoughtful elements to the Azuki at Halo-Halo: ube milk, ube chips, and a surprise ube paste in the center. Each one plays its proud part — sweet and smoky grilled saba, langka jelly, candied pinipig, leche flan ice cream, and more — and they all shine individually and work cohesively instead of being muddled together. Even the langka jelly — a fruit I’m not very fond of — was easy to enjoy.

The creamy milk is a constant companion throughout, while the feathery ice makes every spoonful feel like a soft cloud.

You won’t know what’s in the center until you’re there, and the surprise reveal is intentional, the Toyo team shared. “It’s a self-discovery sort of dessert,” they said.

The Lychee Pomelo turned out to be a refreshing break and an unexpected favorite. On top is sweet lychee syrup (distinctly fragrant but not artificial tasting), and underneath it, a vibrantly pink rosella syrup for tartness.

The kakang gata pudding paired with the coconut meringue cream gives it a tropical profile, making this variant rich but clean, with that coconut touch that feels familiar and new at once.

Just when you think you’ve tried it all, there’s the wildcard Mais at Keso, possibly the best when saved for last.

No, it’s not your typical mais con yelo, even if it is made with Quezon corn and candied pinipig — this one is topped with a bold, savory layer of keso de bola cream, surprising the taste buds in the best way. It’s not super sugary-sweet but gives a sharp hit of salty cheese, mellowed by just enough sweet and creamy milk to balance things out.

For fans of savory desserts, it’s like the grown-up version of mais con yelo — bold, textural (the crispy corn kernels add crunch), and addictive. Kampot pepper is freshly cracked by the staff on top for extra umami.

Considering the towering heap of ice, none of the kakigoris were nakakaumay or nakakasawa — it strikes that balance of offering lots of flavors and components but remaining light and refined.

“We don’t want to overcomplicate things. We want to keep it classy but not too complex,” the Toyo team said.

That sentiment shows in every bowl — there’s a clear Japanese touch while catering to the Filipino palate. Because what’s the point of innovation if it doesn’t connect with the people you’re serving?

At AzukiToyo, creativity coexists with tradition, showing that when two esteemed chefs come together, that’s a pretty cool thing. – Rappler.com

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