From Sarajevo to Mostar: Finding scars of wars amid picturesque views 

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Bosnia and Herzegovina may not be a common European adventure stop, but the mix of shared cultures and histories make it a unique destination

I haven’t heard or read much about Bosnia and Herzegovina when I planned my trip. However, I thought that learning things on the fly would be a fun way to go about it. 

The country was part of my itinerary when I visited the Balkans. I took the overnight bus from Belgrade, Serbia to my first destination in Bosnia and Herzegovina — Mostar. 

Like the other countries in the Balkan region, Bosnia and Herzegovina has an interesting mix of eastern and western influence. The latter used to be a garrison of Turkiye in the 16th century and was under Austrian rule from the late 19th century to the early part of the 20th century. 

The Ottomans built a stone bridge over the Neretva River during their reign. This bridge has been the symbol and most recognizable landmark of Mostar since then. 

During the Bosnian War in the ‘90s, many historic buildings and infrastructure, including the bridge, sustained major damage. The war led to ethnic cleansing which resulted in thousands of deaths and hundreds of thousands displaced.

Despite the scars of war, rebuilding and renovation projects eventually took place to restore the city to its former glory. 

A view of Mostar’s most famous attraction, the stone bridge over the Neretva River. All photos by Joshua Berida

My first impression of Mostar was that it didn’t feel like a city, but a lovely town with an old world charm surrounded by mountains and a river coursing through it. This picturesque backdrop is one I would remember. 

I spent most of my time exploring the old bazaar and old town area as these were the places with traditional architecture, restaurants, museums, and cafes. It’s a lovely place to walk around in and makes you feel like you stepped into a time warp. 

Once the crowds of day trippers left, everything moved at a glacial pace. I watched the sunset and saw the bridge and the surrounding traditional buildings lit up with a golden light (a bit touristy but it did add to the ambiance of the city). I indulged in a few local (and not so local dishes, think fast food) as the day turned into night.

Clear waters and lush greenery surround Mostar.

Sarajevo: Mosaic of cultures, religions, stories

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is also the country’s cultural hub where visitors will discover its rich cultural heritage. 

The Turks left their mark on the city when they built some of its most important landmarks such as the marketplace, Mosque of Ali Pasha, and the Gazi Husrev-Bey’s Mosque.

The country experienced a tumultuous past characterized by shifting allegiances from one empire to another and ethnic conflicts over the centuries. The Ottomans and the Austro-Hungarians made Sarajevo the country’s administrative seat during their reign. 

The dissent and resentment of the local population (specifically the Bosnian Serbs) towards the Austrians culminated in the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand. This shocking event triggered World War I.

In the ‘90s, conflict also caused substantial damage and destruction in the city. 

The Sarajevo City Hall is an architectural gem.

I explored the city on my own and with a tour group to get a sense of the city’s culture and history. Despite the country’s painful memories, there is hope. There are memorial sites to commemorate lost loved ones and stories to never forget. 

There’s also a bustling and happy vibe in the city once I checked out the bazaar and walked around. The Baščaršija Bazaar is centuries old and is home to a synagogue, mosque, and a church. 

This mix of cultural heritage adds to the uniqueness of the city (you’ll see a sign on the floor that says “Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures”). This area is a great spot to try local food and shop for souvenirs. 

The locals repurposed old bullets and mortar shells into various items, one of which is a pen (using a bullet casing). I couldn’t help but buy one because it was such a unique item to bring home. 

The Sebilj, an Ottoman-era fountain, is one of the most well-known landmarks within the historic center. 

One of the prettiest religious sites in the city is the Sacred Heart Cathedral. It dates to the late 19th century and is also a recognizable landmark.

Another significant spot in the city is the Latin Bridge. This centuries-old bridge dates to the time of the Ottomans. It’s an infamous site to some because this was where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Franz Ferdinand and Duchess Sophie. Our guide pointed to the spot where the assassination took place and we crossed the bridge to feel somewhat part of an infamous time in history. 

In some circles, Gavrilo Princip was a hero while in others a criminal and a murderer. The bridge might just be a fitting metaphor, because a person’s view of him will depend on which side one is on. 

The Latin Bridge is a famous and infamous landmark where the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand took place.

Not too far from the Latin Bridge is a striking piece of architecture, Sarajevo’s City Hall. The Austro-Hungarians had it built following a distinct Islamic architectural appearance. 

It used to be the  National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The building incurred substantial damage and loss of hundreds of manuscripts and published materials during the war in the ‘90s. It’s currently the headquarters of Sarajevo’s city council and mayor. 

I went up to the Yellow Fortress with some of the people I met in my accommodation to watch the sunset. It was a fitting end to a short trip around the city. 

Locals and visitors alike spent a few hours watching the sky turn from blue to red then dark. This made me realize how little I know about the region, its tumultuous past, and the healing scars of war over the last century or so. This trip opened my eyes to a different part of the world.

Bosnia and Herzegovina might not be a common addition to your adventure around Europe, but it’s a noteworthy inclusion if ever you’re in the Balkans. You can travel by land and see a different side of the continent. Its mix of shared cultures and histories make it a unique destination. – Rappler.com