2 weeks ago
5
Last Feb. 11, many Filipinos were shocked to learn of the sudden passing of Margarita “Gaita” Forés when her only son Amado posted the sad news on his social media account. The outpouring of love, sympathy and condolences for the culinary icon, Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016 and founder of Cibo, Lusso and Grace Park was overwhelming.
Gaita not only left a void in the culinary scene, she touched the lives of Filipinos as well. Marco Mortiz is one of them. Gaita’s sister Veana Forés shared that when Marco was seven years old, he was selling sampaguita along EDSA cor. Ayala Ave. Every morning, Gaita would buy the fragrant white flowers from him, until one day she decided to pay for his schooling. When he graduated years later, Gaita asked Marco if he wanted to work for her. It has now been five years since Marco started working for Gaita as a custodian for the buffet in the catering department, and his brother Martin works there as well.
Margarita with Myrna Segismundo.
I met Gaita more than 30 years ago when Rowell Santiago was asked to direct “Penthouse Party” (the Sunday evening show that replaced “Penthouse Live,” which was topbilled by Martin Nievera and Pops Fernandez) and he hired me as his assistant producer. “Penthouse Party” was a short-lived show but in one episode, we featured Gaita. She had just gotten back from Italy where she studied Italian cooking and Rowell had heard from Virgie S. Ramos (VSR) of Gift Gate that Gaita was someone to watch out for.
Bibot Nolan with Margarita and Amado Fores.
For her video feature, Gaita invited the show’s staff to her “bahay na puti” (the ancestral Araneta residence in Cubao), where she prepared a pasta dish for all using homemade pasta and fresh tomatoes that she blanched and crushed with her bare hands and added to the pasta. Decades later, I still remember how simple yet delicious it was, and how my attempt to duplicate it a few days later was an epic failure!
AC Legarda with Margarita.
VSR was right. Gaita made a name for herself soon enough. On occasion, I would bump into Gaita at parties and social gatherings where she was the celebrated caterer. She would always be smiling, dressed in her signature all-black or black-and-white ensemble, her arms adorned with multiple bracelets. Her hair would invariably be pulled into a ponytail and large south sea pearl earrings would dangle from her ears. The last time I saw her was during the recent Christmas season. While I was having lunch at Amano, she walked in with Amado, her handsome son who owns the restaurant. We exchanged greetings and then off mother and son went to another appointment.
Today, I pay tribute to Gaita by sharing the unforgettable experiences and memories of five of her friends.
Marivic Larrazabal, wife of Goyo Larrazabal, first nominee of PBP partylist.
Matteo Guidicelli, actor and co-host of ‘The Crawl’
“Filming ‘The Crawl: Italy’ with Tita Margarita was an unforgettable experience. We spent weeks exploring the country, diving deep into its food culture, and most importantly, enjoying each other’s company. Our wine tastings started as early as 11 a.m., and we’d sip and savor until early evening. We ate everything from Michelin-starred meals to comforting home-cooked dishes, each bite giving us a deeper appreciation for Italian cuisine.
“One of my favorite memories was during our long dinners. After a full day of eating, drinking and filming, Tita would sometimes be so tired that she’d start nodding off at the table. Sitting next to her, I’d give her a little nudge just before she dozed off, and we’d both burst out laughing. It became a running joke between us, and those moments of pure fun and exhaustion made the trip even more special. More than just an incredible food adventure, those weeks in Italy were filled with great conversations, laughter and unforgettable memories with Tita Margarita that I’ll always cherish.”
AC Legarda, former Ayala Land executive
“Every 22nd of August, Cibo Glorietta’s (her first branch) anniversary would begin with a Holy Mass followed by the blessing of its original branch by the hallway of Landmark Makati. Margarita always took a moment to acknowledge everyone who believed in and supported her vision, ideas and talent.
“During the last anniversary in 2024, I was surprised when she called me to join her in front. Out of nowhere, she gave me a short but deeply touching tribute as I was closing my chapter with Ayala Land. I was speechless, struggling to hold back tears, so I simply held her hand tightly, hoping she felt just how much I appreciated the gesture, her kind words and her love.
“Had I known it would be my last time celebrating a Cibo anniversary with her, I would have hugged her tighter and longer. Thank you so much, sis, I love you dearly.”
Marivic Larrazabal, wife of PBP Party List first nominee Goyo Larrazabal
“Only a handful of people know what Margarita Forés did for me and my family during one of the most difficult times of our lives. She gave us more than comfort. She gave us a place that felt like home, a table where we could sit and feel safe. Because of her and Amado, we found warmth, love, and the kind of belonging that only comes from true friendship.
“Margarita was a master not only in the kitchen but also in life. Her generosity was boundless — she shared her ideas like she shared her recipes, always with love and intention. To the world, she was a culinary icon. To my son, she was simply Tita Margarita — embraced tightly, adored deeply, and treasured in a way words cannot capture.
“Amado, there are no words for this loss. What we hold onto is the gratitude, as rich and lasting as all of her dishes, for the way she touched our lives.
“Thank you for sharing Margarita with us. Her absence will leave an emptiness at the table, but her spirit will always live on in the hearts she fed and the lives she changed.”
Bibot Nolan, family friend
“I have known Margarita Forés since she was still going to school in New York City. Since I don’t cook, I would have dinners at her mom’s or in ‘wowo’ and ‘wawa’s’ apartment in NYC as they fondly called their grandparents. The home-cooked Filipino food, like roast chicken, adobo, kare-kare, bistek Filipino and breaded fish fillet prepared by Fem — their long-time cook — were my favorites. This was part of Margarita’s Filipino cuisine influence.
“As for her Italian influence, Margarita worked for Valentino and later for Alfonso Telese, an Italian furrier who is a very close friend of her mother’s. I even though Margarita would end up in the fashion industry. Later, we would meet more Italians at parties, in clubs and in restaurants, and I think this partly started her interest in Italy and its cuisine.
“Margarita thinks that she was Italian in her past life. She is so outgoing and friendly that she would somehow convince management to allow her to spend time in the kitchen of the Italian restaurant we frequented on the upper east side. Her energy was partly from the time she spent living in New York, the hard work and the fast-paced life. That’s why you can’t stop her from continuously working and traveling, which were her passions that made her who she is.
“After attending an evening event she had catered, she would then head off to the airport for a midnight flight abroad. You can see her Instagram posts of her continuous travels. She is just so humble and such an influence and example to all of us. As for her fashion style, it came from her mom, Maria Araneta Forés or Tabi as we would call her. Two icons, now side by side, in embrace, comforting each other. Margarita, mi manca.”
Myrna Segismundo, chef
“Margarita and I go as far back as 38 years ago when we met in 1987. (Many of today’s young celebrity chefs were infants then or not even born yet.) We became friends after her guesting at PCI Bank’s exclusive Sign of the Anvil Restaurant, which I managed before I moved to ABS-CBN’s Restaurant 9501. She would often hang out in my office, and I would help her with her caterings. In 1997, I set up her first-ever Cibo in Glorietta and my people jumpstarted her operations. She wanted to make me partner but I said she would be better off with family.
“Margarita and I both shared dreams of success and we went our separate ways to achieve them. Fast forward to 2015, when fate would have Margarita and I sharing the culinary stage in Madrid Fusion as the first Filipino chefs to present in Madrid, Spain, and then again with other chefs at the first “Madrid Fusion” held in Manila. This was a dream come true for us both.
“We had these private jokes between the two of us. She would always say, ‘Patience is a virtue,’ to which I would reply, ‘but with creativity comes discipline.’
“I will remember our good times together. Sweet dreams, Margarita. Ciao!”
Thank you, Gaita, for bringing so much joy and flavor into our lives.
