Breaking the mold: How Abi Balingit, chef Jac Laudico are redefining Filipino desserts

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MANILA, Philippines — Adobo Chocolate Chip Cookies, Halo-Halo Baked Alaska, and Thai Tea Kutsinta — these are just some of the creative desserts Fil-Am baker Abi Balingit has come up with, putting her own playful spin on Filipino flavors.

Balingit, based in Brooklyn, is the author of the best-selling cookbook Mayumu: Filipino American Desserts Remixed, a heartfelt tribute to her Kapampangan roots and family. The title, which means “sweet” in Kapampangan, defines her raging sweet tooth and passion for reinventing classic Filipino treats. Her inventive yet familiar approach to baking has earned her the prestigious James Beard Emerging Voice Award in 2024.

ABI Balingit giving a demo of her signature recipes at Guevarra’s in San Juan City. Image from Guevarra’s

Despite her viral success, baking has not always been an easy journey for Balingit. A self-proclaimed perfectionist, she faced her fair share of frustrations over the years when recipes didn’t turn out as planned — however, her love for the craft never wavered and in 2020, she started her private blog The Dusky Kitchen in 2020. The name was inspired by the dimly lit kitchen of her Brooklyn apartment, where she found joy baking late at night.

On her recent visit to Manila, Balingit met with Chef Jac Laudico of Guevarra’s in San Juan City for Taste of the Philippines: A Global Culinary Journey, an initiative of Laudico to “promote Filipino talent and deepen the appreciation for the country’s diverse cuisine” through workshops, talks, and collaborations. Balingit’s iconic desserts will be a part of Guevarra’s buffet menu for March, taking inspiration from Laudico’s fellow love for fusion of traditional Filipino flavors with contemporary techniques.

Filipino, but make it different

Balingit’s viral Adobo Chocolate Chip Cookies are a prime example of her fearless creativity, blending the rich, savory flavors of adobo with the classic sweetness of chocolate chip cookies.

“There’s so many new ways that Filipino food is entering the common lexicon of people all over the world, ” Abi said. “Where there’s a will, there’s a way with Filipino food.”

For Abi, it is always a “pleasant surprise” that even in the smallest state of Rhode Island, there is a Filipino market there and they serve halo-halo.

TORCHING the meringue on her Halo-Halo Baked Alaska. mage from Guevarra’s

“Even though some Filipino ingredients are hard to find in the US, that doesn’t stop me,” she said, mentioning ube in particular. “There are always ways to make it work, whether through artisanal shops or online orders. Filipino food has presence everywhere in the world.”

THE final product. Image from Guevarra’s

One of the standout desserts from her Manila visit was the Halo-Halo Baked Alaska, a playful reimagination of the classic Filipino shaved ice dessert.

SMALL servings of the Halo-Halo Baked Alaska, which will be available on Guevarra’s dessert buffet menu starting March. Image from Guevarra’s

“It’s layered with ube and mango ice cream, covered in Swiss meringue, and torched for a caramelized finish — like a traditional Baked Alaska but with halo-halo flavors,” Balingit explained. The dessert was both a technical challenge and a personal homage to the beloved Filipino treat; refreshing, sweet, and creamy.

Homage to childhood

Her Thai Tea Kutsinta is also an interesting brainchild — traditionally, kutsinta is a deep orange-brown due to annatto seeds, but Abi wanted to bring in the bold, fragrant essence of Thai tea to her favorite kakanin. “Growing up in the Bay Area, boba was a huge part of my life, just like it is for many Filipinos. This recipe marries the flavors of brown sugar boba and Thai tea in the form of a chewy, bouncy kutsinta,” she shared.

WORKING together to champion Filipino flavors in novel ways. Image from Guevarra’s

During her demo with Laudico, she emphasized the importance of flavor and color in her recipes. She explained how the foundation starts with a mix of glutinous rice flour and tapioca starch, which give kutsinta its signature chewiness. She then carefully steeps Thai tea leaves in hot water to extract the vibrant, earthy flavor before incorporating it into the batter.

THAI Tea Kutsinta of Abi Balingit — chewy, bouncy, and light. Image from Guevarra’s

The key is to let the tea steep long enough to get that bold taste but not so long that it turns bitter, she said. She balances it with a touch of brown sugar syrup for sweetness and lye water to get the perfect texture, she explained. Lye water gives ramen noodles that “springy, chewy texture.” The final step involves steaming the batter in oiled molds, so that each kutsinta turns out glossy and springy to the touch.

Honoring Filipino farmers

For chef Laudico, innovation in Filipino cuisine isn’t just about technique — it’s also about supporting local farmers and using sustainable ingredients. “We we try to help as much as we can with the local produce,” she shared. “Tuesdays and Saturdays, we order a truckload from the Atok Cooperative.”

“Conscious consumption” is key for Laudico, who encourages people to be mindful of where their money goes. “Just now, actually a few hours ago, they texted me — they had 300 kilos of tomatoes from Region 1. I said, ‘I’ll take 200.’ That’s how we do it here. You’re buying, so choose where your money goes.”

CHEF Jac Laudico is a passionate chef and chocolatier. Image from Guevarra’s

At Guevarra’s, Laudico and her team focus on cooking from scratch instead of relying on instant bouillons, a practice rooted in honoring the heritage of Filipino cuisine. “Be part of the challenge, be part of the support,” she urged. “When we encourage farmers, they’ll be motivated to plant more. The average farmer is in their 50s — we need food security, better produce, and younger farmers.”

With Filipino desserts rich in coconut, rice, corn, and local fruits, Laudico believes the world is ready to embrace them. “Our unique history, shaped by over 300 years of Spanish influence, has given rise to a cuisine unlike any other in the region,” she said.

Her signature pastries in Guevarra’s — Mango Cashew Sans Rival, Ube Crinkles, and Maja Blanca Cheesecake — reflect her philsophy of innovating while staying true to Filipino favorites.

UBE crinkles, made with two kinds of cheeses. Image from Guevarra’s

At the end of the day, there’s no single way to celebrate Filipino desserts — whether it’s through Chef Laudico’s bold takes on local classics or Abi Balingit’s creative twists that bring Filipino flavors to Western audiences. What matters is that these desserts, in whatever form they take, carry the essence of our culture with them. – Rappler.com